What a week it has been for family and friends at home. The fires continue to destroy lives throughout NSW and QLD. It feels like the whole country is on fire as there are also fires in the NT and here in WA. When will it all end! Whilst we are comfortable in the cool temperatures of the Southern Ocean coast you poor buggers are sweltering. Mother nature is cleansing herself.
I think I’ve said it before but I have to say it again, the government needs to listen to the aboriginals when it comes to the fire management of this country. We had firsthand experience of their cool burns in the Northern Territory where they use a mosaic style of burn. Burn one section this year, another section next year and then a further section the following year. This leaves areas for wildlife to find sanctuary and the fires don’t rage they just burn quietly along giving the animals time to move ahead of it. I sat in the car talking to Ash on the phone whilst one of these fires burned in the paddock only three metres away from me. I was not concerned about it and when I eventually turned around and went back to camp, I drove between two fires and waved to the Aboriginal Rangers who were making sure the fire didn’t go too far. It also doesn’t destroy the microbes in the soil like the fires that are burning and destroying everything in their path in the east at the moment. The mosaic fires see the vegetation regenerate quickly to provide feed and new seedlings but the types of fires that are burning in the east will not see life for many years. We saw how these raging fires destroy everything when we lived through the fires in Canberra. The bush was silent and still for many years after the fires, no birds, no animals, no life, pretty sad. Listen to the first nations people, they’ve managed it for thousands of years successfully.
Now I’ll hop off my soapbox!
Monday, we left Wave Rock and drove to Fitzgerald National Park. On the way we passed through Ravensthorpe and Hopetoun. The drive along the coast in the National Park was simply spectacular. The rugged coast line together with the beautiful turquoise water was stunning.



The flora in the area is strange to say the least, you’d think we stepped back in time and were now mixing with the dinosaurs. There is a species of banksia (we think because it looks like banksia features) though it looks like the prototype of the current plant. Only this one grows straight up with leathery leaves with spikes on the ends and the seed pods are hidden right down amongst the leaves, maybe to stop dinosaurs from eating them. They appear all over the place in one section of the park and they give a very ancient feel to the place. We felt like we’d stepped onto a new emerging planet.

There are other plants that are peculiar as well. There is a species we spied, that looks like one from the Time Travellers guide to Australia series. It appears to be a fern at first glance but it’s not, and I could go on about more plants but I’ll bore you. Suffice to say it is a very strange place indeed, but very beautiful.



We stopped at cave beach and you can see the rock strata very clearly where it has been pushed upright and it also appears to be torn. The signboard says that this place is a good example of where Australia ripped away from Antarctica many moons ago. The sea was 80 metres higher than it currently is and only the tips of the mountains were above water.


We stayed for a couple of nights at Hammersley’s inlet, a National Park camp. The first night there were quite a few of us but the second night there was only us and one other couple. There’s a lot of wildlife here, kangaroos feeding on bushes outside our van and even a Mallee fowl that wandered through camp on the second evening. It was so quiet; it didn’t care that we were there and Ian following to photograph it. The bird life was abundant and really nice to hear the different calls.

On our second day we drove down to the inlet to have look and drove out onto the sand. There was a Kangaroo not far up the beach standing looking out to the water, a sight you don’t see too often. Were we were camped was at the end of the bitumen road and a dirt road that will take you across to the highway, but between where we were and Bremmer Bay to the west, there is only wilderness. We drove up to the lookout on the dirt road and the view was amazing. Wilderness spread out in front of us.



We visited Caves beach as mentioned before and Hammersley’s beach and a couple of other beaches to view the coast line. I wasn’t feeling so good that day and was completely exhausted by 9.30am so we went back to camp. I slept for two hours, had lunch and read in the sun and then slept for another two hours and then dinner and back to bed. I was feeling similar on Friday, I’m hoping like hell I don’t have the Barmah Forest Virus which is a bit like Ross River virus. I think I’ll have to go back to work to get healthy again, I’ve never been so unwell as I have in this past 10 months. Now Ian possibly has it, so must just be a virus we picked up somewhere, not to hard to do when you’re travelling.

On Wednesday we filled up with water at Hopetoun and took the Southern Ocean Road towards Esperance. It was bitumen for some of the way and then a rough dirt track (we took the wrong road Grommet). After bouncing along for about 50 kms and not finding the camps we were looking for we made a turn that took us across to the road we were supposed to be on, but still couldn’t find the camps. We saw country the we wouldn’t have seen otherwise and the wildflowers were beautiful to see growing on the sides of the road. Wildflower season is a lot later down this way and the flowers are quite different altogether.
So, a change of plan again. We headed for the highway and turned towards Esperance. About 80kms west of Esperance we turned toward the coast on another corrugated dirt road and drove 7kms into Stokes National Park. What a lovely park. There is dense foliage and each site is very private – separated by thick scrub.
The camp hosts were Des and his Vietnamese wife Tanya, what a live wire Tanya was. She thought I was European for some reason. They were a lovely couple and we joined them and other campers every afternoon for happy hour.

The inlet is a vast body of water that gets blocked off from the ocean from time to time and it was blocked off whilst we were there because the waters edge came up above the tree line leaving the poor melaleucas up to their knees in water. It makes for a very pretty sight though. The fishing is good here we are told and Tanya raved about the place and all the fish you can catch. She caught a couple of massive crabs one morning and had a photo taken with them, she had her arms in the air holding on to the nippers and the body of it covered her abdomen. She told us where to go to be guaranteed to catch a fish, but we didn’t fish, Ian can’t bring himself to kill the poor things, neither can I. We took a drive up to the area she told us about to have a look on the Thomas River.
On the second evening before going to happy hour I told Ian I was going to the loo and wouldn’t be long, well I was back faster than you can say Jack Rabbit. I was walking up the path through the bush and came to a dead stop because just in front of me about two metres away was the biggest brown snake I’ve ever seen, curled up. I said “Oh X*$&##…” and took two steps backwards then turned and quickly walked away. The guy in the camp next to us heard me telling Ian so he went and threw sticks at it to get it off the path. Ian though, he was champing at the bit to get to it and photograph it, but I forbid him.
The next morning I wasn’t going to walk to the loos on my own so I had Ian come with me and I was showing him where the snake was, I was about a foot away (and I had my Japanese riding boots on) and I spied the snake with its head sitting there watching us, this time I quickly took Ians arm and moved at lightning speed far away. I’m told it was a King Brown and everyone agreed that it was massive. They said if it had bitten anyone you wouldn’t have stood a chance. So – what does Ian do, when I’m busy back at the van he takes the camera and sneaks back to take photos, what is wrong with him, is he on fast forward to the grave or something! First its crocodiles he can’t keep away from, now its snakes.

Being national parks, you can’t kill them. Ian reckoned it had a belly full of babies and so Des said he thinks he’ll have to do something about it.
We spent a lot of time painting here, it was so peaceful and quiet. The little birds would flit around and come visit and whilst I was outside quietly painting on Thursday two stumpy tail lizards crawled into camp and came right over near me to eat some bread Ian had put out. They weren’t the slightest bit scared of me. I was able to get up and go inside for stuff a couple of times and they didn’t care they just kept on munching. I watched them for ages, they shared the food and there was one that was obviously the leader and the other followed along. They were so cute.


Friday we moved to Esperance and set up camp at the Council caravan park right on the water and it’s not expensive. The tap water is foul to taste, so for the first time (after enduring crap water and becoming dehydrated as a result) I insisted that we buy bottled water to drink. The park has Great views and cool breezes coming off the water. Unfortunately, I wasn’t well again today so I spent the day in bed sleeping.
Sunday dawned hot, 40 degrees today, but its not like 40 degrees at home, there’s no humidity so its reasonable. We decided to do a loop drive along the Southern Ocean drive. My god, how stunning! The beaches to the west of Esperance are something you’d expect to see in heaven. The colour was sublime with the gorgeous sparkling turquoise on white sand, there aren’t enough words to describe the beauty of it. I can see now why everyone raves about the beauty of Esperance. The water is so inviting you just want to jump in. Some people were swimming but there are signs everywhere warning of sharks, we didn’t see any but the water is so clear you see them coming a mile off.





There are numerous islands off the coast in the archipelago, all rocky, some with patches of green. This is how the Fitzgerald National Park would have looked when Australia split away from Antarctica and before the oceans retreated. Its pretty to look at.

Ian: Paint and canvas were running this week, with both of us taking the luxury of freedom and time to follow our passion for creative art. It’s really heartening and nice to see more native animals in the bush…and also in our camp! The snakes and lizards are more plentiful down this part of WA. Which of course means they hang out on pathways – just waiting for lonely women to come along and then hiss at them, to hear the terrified screams! Haha. Little known that they have a good sense of humour😊
The traveling has been quite rough for the caravan in getting here to remote Esperance. WA government don’t seem to keep up with the maintenance of their gravel roads. The increase in Roo populations is an added stressor when travelling the highways with Van in tow, because I just wouldn’t be able to pull up our 5 tonnes of metal in time, particularly when travelling at 100 Kms and of course, swerving is not an option. So, we travel only during the day and keep to a safer speed. This is something to keep in mind when crossing the Nullarbor in February…Only the grey matter challenged, would consider crossing in the hottest month of summer? perhaps it will only be a cool day at 45 ºC!

Next week we plan to go further east along the coast to Cape Le Grande and have been told that the views a very spectacular down that way, keeping a vigilant eye on the fire situation of course.
Until next week stay safe everyone – these are difficult times.
Courage is the willingness to act in spite of fear. – Michael Hyatt



























































































































































































































































































