7th July 2024
Happy birthday Jacqueline!
On Monday we woke before the sun came up, which wasn’t that hard because the sun didn’t appear above the horizon of the Nullarbor until 7.50 am, until then it was dark twilight. There were still stars in the sky at 6.45 which is quite bizarre considering the sun rises at home at this time of year at 6.30am. Accounting for the half hour difference, it still took a long time to show its face. This confuses me somewhat because some people think the earth is flat, if so, how do you account for the sun rising on the east coast at 6.30 am and three hours later it rises above the horizon at Perth by which time it is high in the sky on the Tweed. If the earth was flat wouldn’t the sun’s rays touch the whole earth at the same time when it rose? As you can tell, we aren’t flat earthers.



After our early morning cuppa we took a stroll along the cliffs enjoying the changing views. When we got back Ian turned the generator on so I could print off the scholarly articles for my next essay, its amazing what you can do in the middle of nowhere these days. Whilst I was reading some of the articles Ian was productive building an earth dug rocket stove from which he cooked some soup for our dinner. They are very efficient cookers and ours only took pieces of dried dead salt bush wood. It worked brilliantly.


I went for a walk out into the Nullarbor whilst Ian was playing around with his fire. Its rather interesting, all sorts of low growing shrubs and a tuffty grass. I could see where some small creature was digging in the sand, either a bandicoot or rabbit. There were spider webs cast between bushes that were so intricate, they would catch anything silly enough to walk or fly that way. There were small birds flitting about and they sang a beautiful song, I don’t know what they were, but out here they can sing their little hearts out, what a joy to hear.
When I got back to the soup cooking, Ian informed me that he went foraging amongst the bushes and threw salt bush leaves and leaves from other bushes into the soup. ‘Here taste this’ he said as he plucked leaves from a low growing shrub. It tasted sour to me and a bit salty. It wasn’t delightful plucking them from my bowl of soup that night.
We sat in the sun for a while with our backs to the sea chatting when I heard a whoosh ploosh sound of air being expelled. I said ‘whales’! and with that we both jumped out of our chairs and ran towards the edge, but not right on the edge. Below us were four baby whales frolicking in the water with a larger, probably adolescent one, behind them keeping watch. We watched them play for quite a while; we are being spoilt for special experiences out here. There were numerous whales breaching and blowing water from their spouts further out all day. If you ever get out to the Nullarbor don’t waste your money visiting the Whale Centre, come here, its free and you probably see more.
On Tuesday we packed up for the trip back east, on the homeward track which will take some time. We pulled into the Nullarbor road house for fuel and Ian nearly had a fit when he saw the price, $3 per litre, the guy who pulled up on the other side at the same time let out some expletives when he saw the price too. Ian and the other guy decided to vote with their feet and left without buying any. We went to the far end of the car park and put in 10 litres from our supply on board to get us to Yalata where the fuel was cheaper. It got us there with a couple of litres to spare. Fuel here was $2 litre at Yalata. Another guy who pulled up behind us also voted with his feet when he saw the price at Nullarbor road house. They are stupid, they are losing business. I didn’t see anyone at the bousers going out and a lot of people kept motoring when they saw the price.


We kept going, stopping for lunch at the camp we were at on the way out then again in Ceduna. It was getting late but we didn’t want to stop in Ceduna so we headed out on the road toward Kimba. We checked out a couple of free camps on the way but there was nobody at them so late in the day, so we kept going to Wirrula. They had a cheap camp site for $15, power, no water but hot showers in that price and toilets. Its funny what you prioritise as important on the road, dump points are the other things that all travelers look out for lol. It was a great camp and we’d recommend it to anyone.
Wednesday we were off to Kimba. This is another place with a fantastic free camp, they just ask for donations which we always honour. Ian had some appointments in Port Augusta next Monday and Tuesday and we didn’t want to stay there for too long so we decided to stay here until Sunday. We didn’t do much, just looked around the town and went up to the lookout. It is a nice little town, with a lovely aspect around it with hills, mountains and grain fields and painted silos. It rained a few days while we were here, so it was a good time to do some drawing and reading in the van. I had my birthday here in Kimba on the 4th, spoilt as usual. Ian cooked me a lovely baked dinner and I popped the cork on a bottle of Tasmanian champagne that Emma gave me last Christmas, it was delicious. We also had our 21st wedding anniversary on Saturday 6th and it was Jacquelines birthday on Sunday 7th. This is usually a big week in our household, but very quiet this year.
Sunday dawned damp after a night of rain and strong winds, but thankfully the wind had died down completely as we headed off towards Port Augusta. The scenery on the way down was inspiring as the rain lifted and we could see the dark clouds behind the hills, photographers would have had a field day with this light. We pulled into the Lakeside caravan park to wait out the next few days and give the batteries a good topping up. Port Augusta is a very busy town with people coming from all sorts of place as it is a hub for all traffic. If you are going east, west, north or south out here you have to go through Port Augusta.

We had planned to go to the Flinders ranges and then up to Maree and across the Oodnadatta Track, then up the centre and across the Barkly Tablelands and down through Queensland, but, It had rained heavily right where we wanted to go and the couple next door who had come down from Birdsville got out just in time. Apparently, there were hundreds of vans stranded, bogged and permanently packed in mud. It’s a good thing we have been dragging the chain otherwise we would have been caught too. The Birdsville Bash and the Camel races at Maree was the attraction and both have been cancelled, all roads out that way have been closed. The park was full on Sunday night with people returning with muddy vans, the lucky ones who managed to extract themselves from the mud.
Coober Peedy, and around Alice was also affected and we checked the roads for the Barkly tablelands and it was full of roadworks and holes big enough to swallow the car and van. A big rethink was needed. Where do we go now? We thought we could still go to Maree but the camps are muddy, darn, the same with the Flinders. Needless to say Port Augusta got very busy over the next few days with very dirty vans and rigs.
We were originally going to go to Kings Canyon but I had been feeling the past few weeks not to go there, well that one was taken out of our hands. It feels like the universe is herding us to somewhere else. I didn’t have a good feeling going down and around the Eyre peninsula. The camp near Tumby Bay felt good for a couple of days, then I started feeling that something was off. I said to Ian, I’m glad we are leaving in the morning, I don’t feel I should be here (I can only speak for myself). That night my dreams were severely disturbed and then I woke and couldn’t go back to sleep. I felt really agitated for some reason and it was preventing me from settling. I got up and looked out the window of the bathroom at the moonlit night and I felt that something was watching us, something dark, so I said emphatically, I’m not afraid of you, so go your hardest, I’m not scared. Not long after I was able to go to sleep and slept soundly. When we were in Port Lincoln I got that oppressive feeling again and was glad to leave. We were going to stay in Coffin Bay but when we went in there for a look it was no, keep going. I was following my intuition and it was telling me to get out of here as quickly as possible, there was no logical reason for it, but I had to follow my gut feelings. There were some strange things happening in this part of the world. As we drove onto the Nullarbor it was as though I was coming out from under a dark cloud into the bright sunshine and I started feeling better about things. I didn’t like the oppressive energy that was present on the Eyre peninsula, I have an idea what it was but I’m not going to verbalise it, hopefully it will be resolved for the benefit of those living there.
There are no extraordinary men, just extraordinary circumstances
that ordinary men are forced to deal with. – William Halsey
Well blogies, thats your lot for this week. Who knows where we’ll end up for the next post.




































































































